Day 15. 14.8 Miles. 6 hours.
Again, so much for shortening those distances! Today will be Rachel’s last day on the trail, so we decided to treat ourselves and have our backpacks transported to the next town. I’ve know about the JacoTrans service for a while but afraid to try it because I might not ever want to carry my backpack again. You leave your pack at your albergue with the JacoTrans envelope attached with the the name of the albergue and town you want it delivered to and €5 inside. Magic!
I hit the road around 7-ish. I’m not sure how quick I’ll be today. My knee woke me up in the middle of the night reminding me that it’s still in a lot of pain. It’s some of the worst pain I’ve ever experienced. And that’s where the Camino turns you into a crazy person because I’m still walking almost 15 miles today!!
First stop was in the village of Hospital de Orbigo. I ordered a Coca Cola (this habit stays here!) and tortilla, and went into the back garden to relax and rest the feet. There are baby chickens walking around! I think they’re chickens, well they’re birds anyway and they’re super cute!
Back on the road. This part of the walk is kinda ugly. I’m next to a highway and it’s really hot! I thought I’d be passing through more villages today. Crap, I’ve run out of water! How did I not fill up my water? I spot a gas station across the highway, run over get a super cold liter of water and fill up the camel back. That’s better! Back to the trail across the highway. Did I mention it’s hot? I come to a rest area just as the next village comes into view. There’s a man playing guitar and singing the same song over and over. It’s about a Peregrino. Well, when a woman goes by, his song becomes about a Peregrina. When I pass, I throw a euro into the guitar case and he asks where I’m from. “Los Estados Unidos” he asks for an American dollar, I tell him I have none. He asks for an American souvenir, I have nothing to offer and continue walking. The song turns into one about an Americana.
This walk is taking a long time it feels like and I’m ready to be done for the day. Astorga finally appears on the horizon and I’m happy to see it. The only problem is that I’m seeing it for so long! I’m still seeing it! How am I not there yet?!?! Then I come to a ridiculously elaborate bridge that crosses a train track. This thing is excessive and cruel!
Finally climb up a hill to the albergue just as JacoTrans gets there and I see my bag! Sweet! Walking without the pack was pretty awesome and I don’t think I would have made it this far today if I’d had to lug it along. Checked in just after Rachel and Mary so we got to room together along with Augusto from Italy. He says he talks I his sleep, should be fun.
Out to lunch. Pasta. Laundry. Nap. Out to dinner. Salad. Pizza. Wine always. Sleep.
Oh yeah, that long unattractive stretch by the highway? I took a wrong turn and was on an alternate route!!!